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FrozenCPU Dual Voltage 6-Ports Baybus Review
Date: Thursday, 15 August 2002 Author: Diceman Provided By: FrozenCPU Page : 2

Stats

6 independant fan channels
Bi-Color LED on each switch (High- red, low- blue, Off- off)
8W per channel (pre-production units tested stable and safe at 14W on each channel at once, for a total power consumption of 84W across the baybus.)
Easy Access screw down terminals located on the rear of the PCB instead of the front.
4 pin molex connection also located on rear of PCB for easier access.
Pot located at top of unit (one for each switch) for adjusting the low voltage level. Adjusts from 7-9V (Higher voltages are required for fans such as sunons that won't run at 7volts)

Closeup of the Screw Down

Another Angle

Front Closeup of Leds & Toggles

You can see from the closeups that the quality is top-notch. Fan wire connections, Dual color Leds, Toggle switches, and molex connection all neatly molded into a tight little package. In case you're wondering why there looks to be an additional smaller PCB board attached to the back of this baybus, it's their for a couple reasons: 1) to allow a much easier connection point versus placing it on the front of the PCB where it would be buried by the faceplate after it's installed. 2) because this unit is jacked with 6 switches on it, there's really no room for it on the main PCB...heh. I think they did a great job with working around a possible problem and turning it into a benefit. If you've experienced the PCB baybus of old, but needed alittle more , this will be a gift from the heavens ( or in this instance, a gift from frozencpu.com ) Let me now show you how to attach a fan to this baby......

Tailed Molex Connections v2

Tiny Screwdriver works best

Smooth over the wires

Done

There ya have it. We've successfully installed our first Tailed molex connector. You can substitute the yellow and black wires for your own situation....just remember, in this situation, the yellow is positive and the black is ground. In alotta instances the red will be the positive with the black still being the ground. So anywhere you see red/black on the PCB of this baybus and you've only got yellow and black.....just follow what I said and you'll be ok. Black is ALWAYS Black! :o)

Unit Assembly

Lexan Template

Start modding faceplate

Notice the "clips"?

I used a typical Antec/chieftec style faceplate here. I had to mod the interior of the faceplate to get rid of the "ribs" on there. They would deter the baybus from fully seating inside the faceplate. This only takes a minute with the right technique. I clips all the edges of the fins, then used a pair RoboGrip pliers to crimp and twist loose the fins.

All gutted out :o)

Adhesive on the Template

Template attached

The lexan Template comes with a couple small foam adhesive pieces to keep it seated on the faceplate during the drilling process. I had 0 issues with it moving on me or anything. However, I kept a tight grip on the two pieces as I drilled...and so should you...heh.

All holes drilled out

Insert Screwdriver, Twist Slowly

This works great ..

Once the drilling has commenced, I tried to pull the lexan template off the plastic faceplate. It didn't wanna hear it and I was afraid of snapping the damn thing. So, I took a flathead screwdriver, inserted it in between the two and slowly twisted until they came apart. Twist slowly and you won't mark up the plastic faceplate with the screwdriver.

Next step is a case of "detailing". If you drill at top speed like I do, you'll melt the plastic ever so slightly and it'll leave a small raised lip where the warm drill bit pierced the faceplate plastic. If you use the technique ( or something similiar ) as I show you in the pic above, this will take you about 4 seconds to remedy. Btw: that tool I'm using is usually classified as a window scraper. usually used to take overspray paint off of windows. I use it constantly for modding....just alittle info for ya.

Ready for Assembly

Fully assembled!

With all that done above, it's time for the final assembly of the unit. Yes, we can fully assemble the unit at this stage because the screw down connections are on the rear of the unit and not buried behind the faceplate. A priceless feature indeed. To do this final step here, you'll want to take off the first row of nuts of the toggle switches and also insert the little black led holders into the faceplate BEFORE you place the faceplate over the unit. If you've drilled your holes correctly and so forth, this will only take a minute too. This kit has been flawless for me up to this point....can it stay in my good graces?.....Keep reading...

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