Bigfoot Computers 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 Review
Date : Thursday, 01 may 2003
By : Stygian
Provided By : Bigfoot Computers

Introduction

Fan control devices are nothing new to the enthusiast or case modder market. Indeed, ever since noisy fans have annoyed someone, there has been a need for a baybus device, pioneered by Cliff Anderson. The Rheobus soon came to be, and by varying the voltage supplied to a fan or set fans, (instead of just switching them on or off), their speed could be controlled somewhat, thus providing differing levels of cooling and subsequently, noise as well. This made sense, as maximum cooling for a system is not always needed; such is the case with most of the better power supplies out there - they vary their fan's or fans' speed according to temperature. While such devices were difficult for the beginner to assemble on their own, companies soon began to produce kits and even ready-made devices that most anyone could use. One need only look at the current crop of devices to realize what a long way the baybus market has come in such a short time.

There are many options for fan control devices, but a common thread begins to emerge among them; almost all of them occupy a 5.25" drive bay. For those who have full-tower cases or only one 5.25" device, this may not be a problem. However, in a mid-tower case with four 5.25" bays, it can be easy to fill them up, leaving you without the option of using many of the fan control units out there. It was only logical then, that manufacturers would begin to produce such devices in the 3.5" drive bay format; not many of us use the second 3.5" drive bay in most mid-tower cases. Because the actual electronics making up the rheobus don't use up too much room, shrinking down to a 3.5" size shouldn't have been too hard for the makers. Indeed, a 3.5" rheobus is an ideal solution for many people who own a Lian-Li case, as most of their cases have three external 3.5" drive bays - and most people will not have used all of these. It is then, no coincidence that the 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 from Bigfoot Computers that I'll be reviewing today, has an aluminum faceplate that matches the Lian-Li finish. But, beyond these aesthetics, does the device perform on par with other fan control devices, in fulfilling its duty to properly and easily provide the user with regulation of fan noise?

Specifications

The 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 features a basic design that is similar to most other fan controllers, the major difference being, of course, that it is mounted in a 3.5" bay and so therefore is much smaller. There are four channels or circuits, each of which can support a load of 13w; each provides power via a 3-pin header/connection that is the same as those found on motherboards. Using 3-pin connectors in such devices is becoming popular nowadays, especially in ready/pre-made units, and part of the reason why is that bulky 4-pin molex connectors would not fit very well in this 3.5" format. I would have liked the option of having screw-down terminals, as the vast majority of my case fans terminate in bare (or tinned, bare) leads as a result of the use of my home made rheobus/baybus. But obviously there are downsides to having such terminals; it is more difficult to connect and disconnect fans, and often you'll have to cut and strip the fan's wires.

Version 2.0 of this rheobus differs from the first model in that each channel supports a load of 13w as opposed to 8w; additionally the PCB layout has changed somewhat. 13 watts should be enough for most applications, unless you're driving many hi-power fans! As mentioned before, this unit is pre-made and has already been assembled you need only to plug in your fans and install the device into a spare 3.5" drive bay.

The 3.5" rheobus comes in a very small box, but thankfully the unit itself is also wrapped in bubble sheeting. Also included are a 4-pin Y adapter (which, IMO, is needed), 2 3-pin extension cables, 4 mounting screws and a small installation sheet. I would have liked to see some 4-3 pin adapters included, as many case fans still use 4-pin connectors. The unit is focused around the black, brushed aluminum frame, to which the PCB and all other components are attached. The faceplate of this black unit matches the look of a Lian-Li PC61 quite well; if you're looking for unity on your case, you'll find it in this rheobus. Only the astute (and nosey) of observers will notice that the "grain" of the brushed faceplate may not match the direction of the grain on your case's bezel.


Small package.
What's included.
Top view - mounting screws included.

Unlike other 5.25" fan control devices, there is no large, horizontally mounted PCB; instead a small PCB sits directly behind the faceplate, and all required components are mounted either to the front or back of it. No large electrical devices such as capacitors project far away from the PCB; thus the neat layout of the PCB ensures that such components won't be damaged by an errant move of your hand. While the front faceplate is very nice, the knobs appear to be merely painted black, and in some spots the black is very thin, making the knobs appear less nice than the rest of the unit. Around each knob is a clear plastic ring - behind the faceplate a PCB-mounted blue LED points toward each ring, so it lights up nicely, surrounding the knob in a light blue glow. On the rear of the PCB, are the four 3-pin connectors and a 4-pin molex connector to receive power from your PSU. It is hard to disconnect a cable from this connector, so that is why the Y-adapter is recommended for use; it's easier to unplug a PSU cable from it, than the rheobus itself. Because the PCB is so small and mounted vertically against the front faceplate, there's little need to worry about interference from a drive coming in contact with the rheobus's components.


Front.
PCB is very neat.
Plastic rings project the blue light from the LEDs.

The knobs on the front appear to be painted black, and the finish is not all that great, at least compared to the look of the rest of the unit. This is hard to notice - it's not a blaring blemish that yells at you from a mile away - but nonetheless, it's something to take note of. A small indentation on each knob serves to show its position, and the ridged-knobs turn with a reasonable amount of even resistance throughout - no complaints in the tactile department. The unit comes with four mounting screws, which is nice since you don't have to open up your case of screws to install the thing, and it'll fit nicely in any 3.5" drive bay with the its three mounting holes on each side.


3 mounting holes on each side.
Cables connected.

The one thing with most ready-made fan control devices is that they use 3-pin connectors and additionally, it can be a pain to hook up fans as you'll most likely have to semi-remove the unit to connect them. Additionally, if your case fans use 4-pin connectors, you'll have to buy or make an adapter to connect it to this device. However, Wolfman has written a nice guide on how to make a fanbus that'll connect to a device like this, and allow you to hook up fans much more easily. If you're using 3-pin fans, the two extension cables are a nice addition as most likely, rear or exhaust fans won't be able to reach the unit when it's mounted in the front of your case. These extensions are only about 30cm (1ft) long, so this may not even be enough. Overall, the connectivity options on this fan control device aren't any better or worse than most of the competition.

Installation

Installation is as easy as plugging in your fans and screwing the unit into a free 3.5" drive bay. For some cases, this may be easier than others; but if you own any of the popular antec/chenming/chieftec cases with a door, you'll be happy to note that this device will fit in there without preventing the door from closing properly - this was confirmed with a quick physical installation into my Antec SX1000 case. This was a big plus for me, as personally I don't like having to discard the door just to accommodate something else.


Will accommodate the antec/chenming/chieftec/etc door!
LEDs are not removable.
LEDs can be seen, somewhat, in between PCB and faceplate.
.

As mentioned, you'll want to use the included Y-adapter just as it's easier to disconnect the 3.5" rheobus if the need arises. The LEDs of the unit are not removeable, short of some disassembly and serious work. The LEDs, while blue, are a lighter blue than most other blue LEDs I've seen, which tend to be deep sort of blue. Overall, no problems were encountered during installation, as the device fit easily into its drive bay, not interfering with any drives above or below it.

Testing

I tested the 3.5" rheobus with the following fans:

I first connected all of the fans to one channel to see if the load could be supported; as the rated max was 13w these three fans should present no problem, and as expected, no problems were encountered. Please note that some large fans have an especially high start up voltage, that is, the minimum voltage needed to get the fan spinning. You'll likely have to turn up the voltage quite a bit to get one of these fans running, but can then turn down the voltage below the start up level and still maintain motor motion. Where this becomes a problem is if you turn off your system, and then turn it back on - your rheobus channel will be at the lower voltage setting, enough to maintain the fan once it's started, but not enough to start it from rest - just something to keep in mind. It's a good idea then, to play with the rheobus outside your case with the fans you plan to use with it, just to get an idea of where each starts up.


Power up!
Full power.
Plastic rings glow from LED's light.
LEDs are not overly bright.

The LEDs around the knobs do get brighter as you turn the knob from left to right, but only a little bit. In practice, it's only really noticeable in somewhat dark-to-dark conditions. Note that this only applies if a fan or other device is connected to the channel; if no device is connected, the LED for the corresponding channel will just glow at its brightest setting. Another I noted was that the black rectangular device in the center of the PCB gets quite warm, almost hot, depending on the fan load and what each channel is set to, when the rheobus is in use. I assume heat is dissipated through here in order to control the fans' voltage. This has been the case with all rheobuses that use voltage regulators instead of PWM circuitry


More of a glow than a bright light...
Full power.
Min. power; brightness changes somewhat.

Overall I had no problems with the fans I tested this unit with. Each channel could be adjusted independently, and each fan's speed could then be controlled to a degree. The loud PTBX 80mm Sunon benefited the most from control, as at max speed it is quite loud; however as a result of the fan's hi-speed design in a quiet mode it is not as efficient as a fan designed to be quiet. Still, the need for fan control cannot be overlooked. In any event, the 3.5" rheobus performed no worse than other 5.25" rheobus devices that I've tested; evidently, the shrink down to a 3.5" format had no negative effects on the device.

Conclusion

The 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 worked great! The move to 13w per channel is certainly welcomed, though it should be noted that most other 5.25" Rheobuses offer between 15-20w per channel. If you truly need this much, you'll have to pass on the 3.5" rheobus. If you have run out of 5.25" drive bays or just desire something a little more diminutive, version 2 of the 3.5" rheobus is for you. The easy installation, and great look that'll match any brushed aluminum front panel make this one a winner, in my books. The only complaints I have apply to other ready-made fan control devices as well; that is, in order to connect fans you'll have to remove the device from its drive bay, and often you'll have to use extension cables to do so, although two 3-pin extensions are provided. Overall, if you have a Lian-Li case and are looking for that finishing touch, the 3.5" Rheobus is for you.

Pros

Cons

Thanks for reading, and a big thanks goes out to Neil at Bigfoot Computers for providing the review unit. If you're interested in purchasing one, the black version (reviewed) is available here, while the silver variant is available here. And, as a special for VH readers, use the coupon code VHSIX to get $6.00 CDN off the price!

 

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