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 Bigfoot Computers 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 Review  

Date : Thursday, 01 may 2003
By : Stygian
Provided By : Bigfoot Computers
Page : 2

Installation

Installation is as easy as plugging in your fans and screwing the unit into a free 3.5" drive bay. For some cases, this may be easier than others; but if you own any of the popular antec/chenming/chieftec cases with a door, you'll be happy to note that this device will fit in there without preventing the door from closing properly - this was confirmed with a quick physical installation into my Antec SX1000 case. This was a big plus for me, as personally I don't like having to discard the door just to accommodate something else.


Will accommodate the antec/chenming/chieftec/etc door!

LEDs are not removable.

LEDs can be seen, somewhat, in between PCB and faceplate.

.

As mentioned, you'll want to use the included Y-adapter just as it's easier to disconnect the 3.5" rheobus if the need arises. The LEDs of the unit are not removeable, short of some disassembly and serious work. The LEDs, while blue, are a lighter blue than most other blue LEDs I've seen, which tend to be deep sort of blue. Overall, no problems were encountered during installation, as the device fit easily into its drive bay, not interfering with any drives above or below it.

Testing

I tested the 3.5" rheobus with the following fans:

  • 92mm ThermalTake - 2.64w
  • 60mm YSTech - 2.16w
  • 80mm Sunon PTBX - 4.3w
I first connected all of the fans to one channel to see if the load could be supported; as the rated max was 13w these three fans should present no problem, and as expected, no problems were encountered. Please note that some large fans have an especially high start up voltage, that is, the minimum voltage needed to get the fan spinning. You'll likely have to turn up the voltage quite a bit to get one of these fans running, but can then turn down the voltage below the start up level and still maintain motor motion. Where this becomes a problem is if you turn off your system, and then turn it back on - your rheobus channel will be at the lower voltage setting, enough to maintain the fan once it's started, but not enough to start it from rest - just something to keep in mind. It's a good idea then, to play with the rheobus outside your case with the fans you plan to use with it, just to get an idea of where each starts up.


Power up!

Full power.

Plastic rings glow from LED's light.

LEDs are not overly bright.

The LEDs around the knobs do get brighter as you turn the knob from left to right, but only a little bit. In practice, it's only really noticeable in somewhat dark-to-dark conditions. Note that this only applies if a fan or other device is connected to the channel; if no device is connected, the LED for the corresponding channel will just glow at its brightest setting. Another I noted was that the black rectangular device in the center of the PCB gets quite warm, almost hot, depending on the fan load and what each channel is set to, when the rheobus is in use. I assume heat is dissipated through here in order to control the fans' voltage. This has been the case with all rheobuses that use voltage regulators instead of PWM circuitry


More of a glow than a bright light...

Full power.

Min. power; brightness changes somewhat.

Overall I had no problems with the fans I tested this unit with. Each channel could be adjusted independently, and each fan's speed could then be controlled to a degree. The loud PTBX 80mm Sunon benefited the most from control, as at max speed it is quite loud; however as a result of the fan's hi-speed design in a quiet mode it is not as efficient as a fan designed to be quiet. Still, the need for fan control cannot be overlooked. In any event, the 3.5" rheobus performed no worse than other 5.25" rheobus devices that I've tested; evidently, the shrink down to a 3.5" format had no negative effects on the device.

Conclusion

The 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 worked great! The move to 13w per channel is certainly welcomed, though it should be noted that most other 5.25" Rheobuses offer between 15-20w per channel. If you truly need this much, you'll have to pass on the 3.5" rheobus. If you have run out of 5.25" drive bays or just desire something a little more diminutive, version 2 of the 3.5" rheobus is for you. The easy installation, and great look that'll match any brushed aluminum front panel make this one a winner, in my books. The only complaints I have apply to other ready-made fan control devices as well; that is, in order to connect fans you'll have to remove the device from its drive bay, and often you'll have to use extension cables to do so, although two 3-pin extensions are provided. Overall, if you have a Lian-Li case and are looking for that finishing touch, the 3.5" Rheobus is for you.

Pros

  • Fits in a 3.5" bay
  • 13w per channel
  • Looks great; matches many brushed aluminum cases
  • Resistance in knobs is not too much nor little, and is uniform
  • Easy installation; no assembly required; no blocking of doors on Antec SX1000-type cases.
  • Two 3-pin extension cables included
  • Price: $39.98 CDN as of 2003-04-21

Cons

  • Connecting and re-connecting fans is troublesome once unit is installed
  • Fan knobs are painted black, are not uniform in look (some blemishes)

Thanks for reading, and a big thanks goes out to Neil at Bigfoot Computers for providing the review unit. If you're interested in purchasing one, the black version (reviewed) is available here, while the silver variant is available here. And, as a special for VH readers, use the coupon code VHSIX to get $6.00 CDN off the price!

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