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Introduction Fan control devices are nothing new to the enthusiast or case modder market. Indeed, ever since noisy fans have annoyed someone, there has been a need for a baybus device, pioneered by Cliff Anderson. The Rheobus soon came to be, and by varying the voltage supplied to a fan or set fans, (instead of just switching them on or off), their speed could be controlled somewhat, thus providing differing levels of cooling and subsequently, noise as well. This made sense, as maximum cooling for a system is not always needed; such is the case with most of the better power supplies out there - they vary their fan's or fans' speed according to temperature. While such devices were difficult for the beginner to assemble on their own, companies soon began to produce kits and even ready-made devices that most anyone could use. One need only look at the current crop of devices to realize what a long way the baybus market has come in such a short time. There are many options for fan control devices, but a common thread begins to emerge among them; almost all of them occupy a 5.25" drive bay. For those who have full-tower cases or only one 5.25" device, this may not be a problem. However, in a mid-tower case with four 5.25" bays, it can be easy to fill them up, leaving you without the option of using many of the fan control units out there. It was only logical then, that manufacturers would begin to produce such devices in the 3.5" drive bay format; not many of us use the second 3.5" drive bay in most mid-tower cases. Because the actual electronics making up the rheobus don't use up too much room, shrinking down to a 3.5" size shouldn't have been too hard for the makers. Indeed, a 3.5" rheobus is an ideal solution for many people who own a Lian-Li case, as most of their cases have three external 3.5" drive bays - and most people will not have used all of these. It is then, no coincidence that the 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 from Bigfoot Computers that I'll be reviewing today, has an aluminum faceplate that matches the Lian-Li finish. But, beyond these aesthetics, does the device perform on par with other fan control devices, in fulfilling its duty to properly and easily provide the user with regulation of fan noise? Specifications The 3.5" Rheobus v2.0 features a basic design that is similar to most other fan controllers, the major difference being, of course, that it is mounted in a 3.5" bay and so therefore is much smaller. There are four channels or circuits, each of which can support a load of 13w; each provides power via a 3-pin header/connection that is the same as those found on motherboards. Using 3-pin connectors in such devices is becoming popular nowadays, especially in ready/pre-made units, and part of the reason why is that bulky 4-pin molex connectors would not fit very well in this 3.5" format. I would have liked the option of having screw-down terminals, as the vast majority of my case fans terminate in bare (or tinned, bare) leads as a result of the use of my home made rheobus/baybus. But obviously there are downsides to having such terminals; it is more difficult to connect and disconnect fans, and often you'll have to cut and strip the fan's wires.
The 3.5" rheobus comes in a very small box, but thankfully the unit itself is also wrapped in bubble sheeting. Also included are a 4-pin Y adapter (which, IMO, is needed), 2 3-pin extension cables, 4 mounting screws and a small installation sheet. I would have liked to see some 4-3 pin adapters included, as many case fans still use 4-pin connectors. The unit is focused around the black, brushed aluminum frame, to which the PCB and all other components are attached. The faceplate of this black unit matches the look of a Lian-Li PC61 quite well; if you're looking for unity on your case, you'll find it in this rheobus. Only the astute (and nosey) of observers will notice that the "grain" of the brushed faceplate may not match the direction of the grain on your case's bezel.
Unlike other 5.25" fan control devices, there is no large, horizontally mounted PCB; instead a small PCB sits directly behind the faceplate, and all required components are mounted either to the front or back of it. No large electrical devices such as capacitors project far away from the PCB; thus the neat layout of the PCB ensures that such components won't be damaged by an errant move of your hand. While the front faceplate is very nice, the knobs appear to be merely painted black, and in some spots the black is very thin, making the knobs appear less nice than the rest of the unit. Around each knob is a clear plastic ring - behind the faceplate a PCB-mounted blue LED points toward each ring, so it lights up nicely, surrounding the knob in a light blue glow. On the rear of the PCB, are the four 3-pin connectors and a 4-pin molex connector to receive power from your PSU. It is hard to disconnect a cable from this connector, so that is why the Y-adapter is recommended for use; it's easier to unplug a PSU cable from it, than the rheobus itself. Because the PCB is so small and mounted vertically against the front faceplate, there's little need to worry about interference from a drive coming in contact with the rheobus's components.
The knobs on the front appear to be painted black, and the finish is not all that great, at least compared to the look of the rest of the unit. This is hard to notice - it's not a blaring blemish that yells at you from a mile away - but nonetheless, it's something to take note of. A small indentation on each knob serves to show its position, and the ridged-knobs turn with a reasonable amount of even resistance throughout - no complaints in the tactile department. The unit comes with four mounting screws, which is nice since you don't have to open up your case of screws to install the thing, and it'll fit nicely in any 3.5" drive bay with the its three mounting holes on each side.
The one thing with most ready-made fan control devices is that they use 3-pin connectors and additionally, it can be a pain to hook up fans as you'll most likely have to semi-remove the unit to connect them. Additionally, if your case fans use 4-pin connectors, you'll have to buy or make an adapter to connect it to this device. However, Wolfman has written a nice guide on how to make a fanbus that'll connect to a device like this, and allow you to hook up fans much more easily. If you're using 3-pin fans, the two extension cables are a nice addition as most likely, rear or exhaust fans won't be able to reach the unit when it's mounted in the front of your case. These extensions are only about 30cm (1ft) long, so this may not even be enough. Overall, the connectivity options on this fan control device aren't any better or worse than most of the competition. << Back to Reviews Page | Installation, Testing and Conclusion >>
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