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Best viewed @ 1024 x 768 and higher
Installation: The real trick to filling the 760i is to leave the unit sticking out the front just enough to fill the unit, or you use the included squeeze bottle to fill it from the side, or even from the top since this particular case opens that way. Chances are the squeeze bottle will come in very handy no matter what you choose. Once the unit is filled, it simply needs matched up to the front bezel and the screws attached. Another nice thing is that the tubing can be pre-attached to the water block and the two white quick coupler nozzles. These will simply snap in to the black couplers coming off the main unit and the water will flow when powered. If you disconnect these, only a couple drops may fall which shouldn't be a problem if you stick with 100% distilled water. That way, no components get shorted out. *Note: I have put this to the test twice. In the first test, the 100% distilled water wet the USB and front panel connectors. In the second test, the water was placed on the back of a graphics card. In both tests, the system never rebooted, blue screened, erred, or powered down. Special coolants and additives will most likely cause damage unless they specify otherwise, which is why I choose to use 100% distilled water only.* The CPU water block is a snap to install once the motherboard is removed and you attach the padded back plate. The included screws help mount the CPU block via its chrome bracket which simply slides down on to the screws. When you're sure the block is making a decent, balanced connection to the CPU, the washers and bolts are used to hold the block firmly in place. Don't forget the AC5. Here's where I ran in to a glitch. After filling the reservoir, the unit had a
very hard time priming the system. When filling the reservoir, some water does
start to fill the tubing due to gravity. But, there was still a decent amount of
air in the tubing. It just couldn't remove the air properly and required some
unorthodox maintenance to correct the issue. Turning the unit on its pump side
while powering the unit on and off was the only way to get the system to prime.
(Thank goodness I made sure there was just enough tubing length to pull the main
unit out of the front bezel.) Testing
The 760i BigWater was tested on an E6750 (2.66GHz) Core 2 Duo processor and ASUS Blitz Formula (P35) motherboard. Before testing, the system needed at least a good 24 hours of regular use to allow the thermal paste to settle. Temperatures can be incorrect without at least a good day or two of load testing. This has been the practice with every water cooling block and system. And it's proven to be much more reliable, even in this case. Preliminary temps were actually higher for the first 12 hours and actually dropped a little. Orthos was used to 'cook' the block for 2 hours to see how high the temps would reach. After which, the system sat idle for 2 hours to see how cool the system would recover and maintain cooling the processor. After both these tests were completed, the E6750 Core 2 Duo was overclocked a good 1000MHz to allow for more thorough comparison of the system's overall cooling capacity.
I'm surprised that such a low flow
CPU cooling block and system performed
as well as it did. My first concern was in regards to the really thin copper
base and whether or not the liquid could be cooled quick enough once it flowed
through the radiator. Also, the fact that it mounts inside the computer case
which can get very warm depending on air flow. The SwordM is a spacious and well
cooled chassis given its good number of fans.
Also, the pump does vibrate a little. You can't hear it when its in your hand
near as much as when it's installed in the case. The vibration caused a bit of a
whiny sound mostly due to the case itself. I'm sure it won't sound the same in
all cases. To help quiet down the case, I used a couple small silicone bumpers
used to silence cabinet doors to keep them from slamming. You can pick those up
at any Lowes, Home Depot, or hardware store.
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