Impressions:

   Being that this is yet another complete water cooling kit, we have the CPU-300-V10 CPU Block, GPU 180-L06 VGA Block, and GPU 180-V06 VGA which doubles as a very efficient chipset block. Each one of these water blocks has a perfect mirror finish that anyone can appreciate. Between Koolance and Zalman, they have the most perfect base finishes to ever come across the test bench. The Koolance blocks also all have the infamous Engineering Resin block tops which are semi-clear and can handle temperatures exceeding 200 degrees Celsius, not mention handle internal pressures exceeding 65 Psi.

CPU-300-V10	GPU 180-L06	GPU 180-V06
Back	CPU-300 Bottoms	All Mirror Bottoms

The two GPU-180 blocks are similar in the main construction except for the one noticeable difference. The GPU 180-V06 barbs are designed straight out which works great for chipsets and various other non-SLI configured video cards. The blocks did so well on the hotter video card processors, it was adopted and used with chipsets which tend to run much cooler. The GPU 180-L06 barbs are designed with 90 degree adjustable barbs which make use with single or dual video card configurations much easier.

By now you've probably noticed that the system uses the bolt on nozzle method which is probably the most secure method if your system is regularly moved or put through extreme usage and maintenance. Not one leak has occurred to date on this VH test bench even when only hand tightening was used. The tubing is easy to get over any of the barbs or nozzles by default, but a little lubrication makes it even easier. Even with careful mounting, it is still recommended that the water blocks be attached to the tubing before being mounted on any bare processors such as the video card GPU, chipsets, and any bare processors without the aluminum IHS covers.

Installation:
 

To start off the project, the EHX directions were read over to better understand what was ahead. The directions are actually pretty simple to understand. You will need a Philips screw driver and your undivided attention. The mounting kit as mentioned before has 6 main components and have all the screws provided.

Manual

RP-1000SL Page

Block Sequence

Attention!

Two screws held on the left side panel of the Coolermaster Mystique case which were removed. Then the two main chassis hinges were screwed on using the removed screws which holds the brackets securely in place. Using screws provided in the kit, the two EHX hinges were screwed in place keeping the chassis hinge placement in mind. The top hinge can actually sit on top of the chassis hinge and below the bottom.

Removing Case Screw	Case Hinge	Sliding in Hinge Pole
Top Mounting Holes	Bottom Holes	Hinge Plate
Hinge Adjustments	Arm Spacer	Adjusting Arm

The two adjustable spacer arms were screwed on the EHX at the far ends. Each one has Velcro style pads which will be removed once the EHX is mounted. The long chrome single hinge arm can be unscrewed from either end which allows you to slide it through the EHX hinges and the chassis hinges. Once it was guided through and completely centered, the top hinges were tightened so that it wouldn't slide through any further. The same was done to the bottom hinges and then the tip-screw was tightened back on the end. After all the hinges were adjusted to center the radiator, the rest of the kit was laid out.

Hinge Bar	Adjustable Arms	EHX Open
Hinge Close Ups	Left Side	Right Side

Once the entire EHX kit was mounted and adjusted, the PCI L-Bracket was installed. Every case has a little different PCI access at the back of the chassis. Some have larger slot access than others. The Mystique has smaller slots and therefore needed a little improvising. The Quick Connectors were removed from the L-Bracket as well as the rubber grommet for the fan wiring. After locking the L-Bracket in place, the barbs were reinstalled without issue. The tubing was connected to the EHX and the Quick Connectors. With the EHX portion complete, it was now time to assemble the water blocks and pump.

Coil Tubing

Quick Connectors

L-Bracket Apart

Installing L-Bracket

Connected

Installation Note: The Koolance Manual instruct you to pre-connect the tubing to the water blocks before mounting them to any of the system's components. The simple reason is so that you do not accidentally damage the processors. The easiest way to date is to connect the tubing to your water blocks and mount them with your motherboard lying just outside your case. It is easier as far as maneuvering your hands and making certain that the blocks and tubing connections are all secure.

The CPU-300-V10 is capable of using your existing motherboard back plate with the provided spacers. If the back plate doesn't work, using the provided screws, spacers, and bolts make it possible to mount the CPU mounting plate. The black center thumb screw on the Koolance fastening plate gets a few turns which starts pushing the block tighter against the CPU. It doesn't take much twisting to really secure the CPU, so it's important to not over tighten.

Sensor Directions	Sensor 3	Directions and Kit	Parts Selected
Thermal Paste	Tightening the Block	Tubing Added	Complete