Closer Look:
 

Koolance CPU-330 & CHC-120-V10 Water Blocks

Where to begin? First off, I have to honestly say that my favorite water blocks have had the best of both worlds in looks and performance. Two names have come across the test bench in the past year that reigned supreme in terms of best performance and looks. Swiftech's Apogee and Apogee GT have had the most 'bling' to performance ratio and has been having a great run for quite some time now. Koolance's blocks weren't bad looking, but I couldn't quite integrate their orange colored resin tops with every system theme. However, performance was especially good with the CPU-305 water block. The blocks could take a serious technical beating and still come out unscathed. Until a few weeks ago, the Koolance blocks didn't quite have the 'bling' to performance ratio. The new CPU-330 has much more to offer in terms of looks and design. As you can see, it's nothing like the previous coolers and looks very promising.

CPU-330

Angle

Thick Block

The block weighs just a bit more than the previous CPU-300/305 blocks, but has a new method of mounting that I will critique later on. The copper base carries over that exceptional mirror finish that you've come to expect from Koolance blocks. It has a little smaller base contact area compared to the CPU-300/305 blocks which should be interesting to see the performance differences later on. The block itself doesn't quite have a chrome finish, but more of a great polished aluminum that gives it a cleaner more appealing facade. This new look gives the water block a solid and well assembled feel. Often, I like to check for any odd movement and to see how many parts or screws it takes to assemble the block. This is going to be a very low maintenance block based on how it's assembled.

You can see down inside the CPU-330 without opening up the block as it comes without barbs. Inside the block you can see that the machined copper pins stand just a bit taller than the previous blocks. The internal chamber also looks to have more room for water flow. If you aren't aware already, some blocks do better depending on how much water flows through them. Judging by barb ports, any decent pump should do well with minimal flow resistance. Why does it come without barbs you ask? According to Koolance, it is more cost effective for them and you to pick out your necessary barbs rather than including every size which undoubtedly drives up the price. Users quite often focus on cooling just their CPU rather than any extra components like the graphics card and chipsets. It does make sense to give you the flexibility in configuring your own block's barb sizes so that you can mix and match any other components.

Inside Machining

Mirror Finish

CPU Kit

Moving on to the CHC-120-V10, the water block follows the same theme as the CPU-330 with that sleek looking polished aluminum appearance. It's also nice to see the same aggressive internal pins used inside the CHC-120 which should equate in to better than average performance. The mounting screw holes can be seen on each side which don't quite line up with any chipset hardware I've recently seen. None the less, the mounting kit includes any and all hardware to mount the block in any configuration. And alas, the same mirror finish comes stock with the copper base. This is always such an exemplary feature and great attention to detail.

CHC-120-V10

Top

Thick Block

The barbs sent with this block are large 10mm barbs come pre-mounted. My guess is that the block needs to have the 10mm barb for maximum performance, though I'm sure it isn't completely necessary and would perform perfectly well. Of course, the barbs can also be changed out if you require a smaller I.D. tubing if that's what you require. The barbs are a little different than the CPU block's. The CHC-120 barbs are designed as though they are meant to be hand tightened where as the CPU-330 has hex bolt barbs meant for the use of a tool. The barbs can withstand a tool if needed, but appears to ultimately depend on your hand strength.

Matrix Inside

Chipset Kit

Identical Theme

Probably an equally great feature of the CPU-330 Water Block and CHC-120 V10 are the prices. You've probably seen the $80 to $90 price tags on Koolance blocks when the CPU-300/305 and other blocks were first released. . This was an obvious deterrent for me and many other users when shopping for water blocks. Well, I am very happy to say that these blocks carry much more affordable price tags of $49.99 for the CPU-330 and $39.99 for the CHC-V10. Even the older series blocks have come down in price to $39 to $50 depending on the versions. This should put Koolance in a better position to aggressively compete with any other serious manufacturer out there.

Installation:

Each block comes with ample parts necessary to successfully and easily install your water blocks. The previous installation methods included a few more parts that proved to be the most rigid mounting method on the market. Those parts consisted of extra standoffs and adjustable clamps as well as several washers and screws. It was all finally held in to place by an adjustable cross clamp system that utilized a black screw knob that would be hand tightened on top of the block. It also kind of hid the block away from admirers as they past by. However, in the method's defense, there was absolutely no way that the CPU-300/305 could ever fall off or come loose even if, heaven forbid, you dropped your computer case.

Instructional Diagram & Components

Back Plate, Plate Insulator, Top Plate

Top CPU Plate w/ Mounting Holes

The new method for the CPU-330 is simpler and similar to the latest tension-spring thumb screws found on various CPU coolers and water blocks like the Apogee. The new method uses 4 standoffs, washers, tension spring thumb screws, chrome back plate, . The kit also includes extra standoffs if you need the extra lift due to different size boards or height requirements. The new method uses a few less larger mounting parts and doesn't hide the water block whatsoever from plain view. The bottom bracket and rubber pad prevent any grounding since some motherboards have been coming with longer solder leads which four long screws attach and fit through the motherboard's four holes. The block just sets right on top (don't forget thermal paste and to take off the block's protective sticker) and the top chrome plate slides down over the four screws which centers the block. That's where the four thumbscrews come in which more than supports the CPU block.

4 Bolt Screws

Rubber Insulator

Top Plate Slides On

The tubing can be connected to the CPU block after it's installed unless you have a bare exposed CPU core as opposed to the newest cores with the aluminum IHS. Since I have a newer processors, the tubing was connected after the block was mounted. It's much easier and won't damage your processor as you press on the tubing. As with all water blocks, take your time and be patient by default. It's a different story with the CHC-120-V10 because it does sit on an exposed chipset that can crack if too much pressure is applied. For best results, I made sure the pre-attached barbs were well tightened and then pre-connected the tubing to the CHC-120 and then configured its mounting hardware.

Alternate Left Screws

Alternate Right Screws

Square and "Toight"

Working with the CHC-120 is much easier than first impressions implied. There are many extra mounting components that most people will probably not even need to use unless your motherboard has the two wire hooks that hold your chipset heat sink/fan in place. In this particular test system and with a good amount of caution, the chipset heat sink was easily removed via the standoffs. Some more thermal goop was applied as well as some extra protection to prevent any teetering of the water block during installation. I chose to use 4 small clear rubber bumpers matching the same thickness as the chipset heat sink's that can be found at any local Lowe's, Home Depot, or hardware store. They can't be too thick or the block won't make a good connection which would be disastrous.

Good Instructions

Ready to Mount

Tightened & Ready

The two curved swing arms are screwed on after you get an idea of where to adjust and tighten the screws that hold them in position. The block can easily be rotated if need be to ensure there is a good seating and position for attachment using this mounting kit. Then the two standoffs and long screws are fit through the motherboard to hold the chipset block in place. With the two tubes already connected, it takes a little bit of dexterity to center the block over the two screws while bolting on the block using two thumbscrews that are alternately tightened. It doesn't require anything special other than standard patience and care.

Now, the rest of the tubing was connected and double checked. After refilling the RP-1000 Reservoir and Pump, it took a few fills to get the system properly primed and flowing. A standard 3 hour system test was performed to check for leaks and adjust the system. After every last bubble was gone and the system was humming away nicely, the entire system was connected to power. This is always the moment of truth or panic!