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Installation: A little prep is needed for the blocks. You first have to decide what size block barbs you need to work with your cooling system and then screw them on. It doesn't really take a great amount of effort to make them secure enough against leaks. Once you see the black O-ring start to press down and out a bit, the barbs are tightened enough. Next, lay out your mounting kit in four piles for mounting the block. First, the each big screw and one black washer gets fed through the board from underneath. Second, a black washer and bolt are threaded over the screw end which locks and holds the long screw in place to prevent shifting or slipping during the final block mounting process. This step is repeated for the other three screws. Third, after selecting the appropriate water block mounting plate, the water block and plate are placed over the four screws. It will be a little loose, but still manageable. Fourth, the tension spring and black spacer are slipped over the screws, followed by one black washer and thumbscrew. Finally, alternately tighten each thumb screw while keeping the water block centered over the CPU and making sure it makes good contact with the chrome plate. The process isn't really anything new to this test bench, but is simple enough to understand and most importantly, keeps the Fuzion block securely mounted. The chrome plate is pretty slick and makes the already decent looking block that much more cooler looking. As long as your processor has the aluminum IHS cover such as those on the newer AMD and Intel processors, you can now install your tubing and clamps. Oddly enough, this kit did not come with any clamps or locking rings to secure the tubing. I'm not sure if this is a fluke, but I couldn't find anything mentioned in the manual about those parts. The kit should really include clamps for you. Fortunately, I had some clamps on hand that aren't hard to find something at the nearest hardware store. The Fuzion GFX chip needs a little bit more care and patience because you will installing the block on a bare GPU processor. After removing your graphics card's stock heat sink, clean off the GPU and add some fresh thermal paste like Artic Silver 5. First, there is a sticky foam padded square that first gets placed over the GPU PCB that is suppose to help keep the GPU from rocking, or tilting, which prevents GPU damage. It will also help keep some space between your block base and tiny parts on the PCB. Next, I pre-attached the tubing to the block rather than taking a risk after it's mounted against the bare GPU. Select the proper chrome padded back plate, place it on a flat surface, and center the graphics card over the four holes looking through the card's PCB. Select the matching chrome mounting plate that fits over the GFX block. Then, carefully set the Fuzion GFX block on the GPU. There are four screws and tension springs that now should be screwed gently through just till the screw head touches the tension spring. Do this to alternate corners till the screws are set. After double checking the block's placement, start tightening each screw a little at a time, alternating corners till the screws won't spin any more. You'll notice that the block can't be excessively tightened on the block and can still tilt if really pushed. Just to make sure, the tubing was moved around to see exactly how well the block resists tilting. It will take some extreme twists and angles to get the block to tilt. And with the blocks mounted, let's check some performance.
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