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Best viewed with IE 4.0 or later, 1024 X 768.

 LED Baybus Guide  

Date : n/a
Author : Wolfman
Provided by : n/a
Page : 2

If you have a small bench vice, it will be even better as it will provide a secure grip on the faceplate so you do not have to worry about the faceplates moving around while you're trying to solder the wires. I will start by soldering the wires onto the line-in terminals first. Heat up the iron and place it on the terminal and wire. Then put the solder to the wire and let it melt and bond the wire to the terminal. You can use a heat shrink tube over the connection to prevent any short-circuits, or in my case, to hide the crappy soldering skills!! :O) You will get something like the picture below. The loose wire is for connection to your PSU Molex connector.


Faceplate on bench vice
Click to enlarge

Soldering line-in terminals
Click to enlarge


Heat shrink tubing
Click to enlarge

Line-in terminals with loose end
Click to enlarge

Next comes the tricky part. You will need 4 separate wires of about 3 inches long for each line-out terminals. When the switch is in the "ON" state, the voltage will flow from the line-in terminals to the line-out terminals and to the fans. This is needed so that each switch can control different fan.

And like I mentioned before, I will be using an LED for each switch to indicate the "ON" state. And resistors are required to bring down the 12V to the LED rated voltage. Thus, you will need to connect both the 3-inch wire and resistor to the line-out terminal, like so; Do not connect the resistor to the line-in terminals. Doing so will leave the LED lighted no matter what state the switch is at ("ON" or "OFF")!! Do not cover the whole resistor with the shrink tube once done, you will need to connect the loose end to the LED!


Wire and resistor together
Click to enlarge

Crappy skills at work!!
Click to enlarge


Don't forget the shrink tube!!
Click to enlarge

Continue to do the same for the rest of the switches and you'll get something like the picture below. The picture is a little blurry, but you can see the excess resistor wire for connection to the LED connector. Next is to get the LED connector, I used some old "Turbo LED" connectors for easy connection to the LEDs. And in case the LED is faulty, you can easily remove the connector and replace the LED.

In the bottom right picture, you will notice that I soldered the positive wire to the resistor. The white wire is the Ground. I forgot to slide on the shrink tubing first, so I left it the way it is!!! You can always use some electrical tape for it. Always slide the heat shrink tubing first before soldering the joints!!


Completed line-out terminals
Click to enlarge

Connection between resistor and LED
Click to enlarge

Continue to do the same to the rest of the connectors and resistors. Once finished, crimp on the wire connectors onto the loose end wires to have a finished product like the one below. All the Ground wires from the LEDs are bound together and soldered before crimping.


Front view complete Baybus
Click to enlarge

Rear view
Click to enlarge


Close up
Click to enlarge

<< Page 1 | Page 3 >>

 


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Top Products

Motherboards
Intel | Abit
Gigabyte | Asus
Epox | Iwill
MSI | Shuttle
Tyan | Soyo
ECS | ASRock

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AMD | Intel
Compaq

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Antec | Lian-Li
Thermaltake
SilverStone
Coolermaster
ATX | BTX

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ATI | nVidia

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DDR | DDR2
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OCZ | Patriot

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Creative Labs
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Seagate | Hitachi
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Viewsonic | Dell
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