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 LED Baybus Guide  

Date : n/a
Author : Wolfman
Provided by : n/a
Page : 2

If you did it correctly, you should obtain something like the pictures below. Try to arrange the wires properly and neatly. It would help you trace any problems with the circuit much faster. If you can, connect the LED's the way Cliff has done. It will be much easier to change the LED in case it's damaged. I am using the Blue LED to indicate 5V and the Red to indicate 12V.


Control unit completed
Click to enlarge

Rear view
Click to enlarge


Very messy and confusing!
Click to enlarge

Close up on LED Connectors
Click to enlarge

And since this is a 5V / Off / 12V setup, the 5V Line-Out can be combined with the 12V Line-Out. No, this is not a "7V trick", but rather the voltage supply is controlled by the DPDT switch in the faceplate. The 5V is the red wire, and the 12V is the yellow wire. And do not forget to include the 5V line into your Male Molex connector.


5V out & 12V out together
Click to enlarge

Male Molex connector to PSU
Click to enlarge

I also soldered the Black ground, or "negative", wires from the LEDs and from the Molex connector together and use a screw on type wire connector.


Ground wires soldered together
Click to enlarge

The Fanbus is the easiest part of the unit. Just drill some holes on the removable cover and screw on the spring wire terminals onto it. Then solder the appropriate wires onto the terminals, Ground, or "negative", on the black terminals and 4 individual "positive" wires to the red ones. These "positive" wires are used to receive the 5V or 12V signal from the control unit and channel them to the fans.


Fanbus ready for soldering
Click to enlarge

Common ground soldered
Click to enlarge


5V/12V lines soldered
Click to enlarge

Completed Fanbus
Click to enlarge


Completed Unit
Click to enlarge

Once the fanbus is completed, connect it to the Baybus control unit and you should get something like this.

<< Page 1 | Page 3 >>

 


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